Your Complete Guide to RV De-Winterization in Nebraska (What Most New Owners Miss)
- Jordan Concannon
- Dec 15, 2025
- 8 min read
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🌱 Spring Is Coming — But Don’t Rush De-Winterization
Nebraska spring is… moody.
One week it’s 55°F and sunny. The next week? Wet snow, freezing rain, and overnight lows in the 20s.
Every year around March and April, I start getting the same calls from RV owners in the Omaha metro:
“My water pump is leaking.”
“Why is my water heater spraying everywhere?”
“My toilet won’t hold water now.”
“There’s water under my cabinets — did something freeze?”
Most of these problems come from:
de-winterizing too early, or
rushing the process and skipping key steps.
De-winterization isn’t just “flushing out the pink stuff.”
It’s a full RV systems reactivation — and it’s also the perfect time to catch winter damage before your first camping trip.
This guide walks you through everything a Nebraska RV owner should do in March–April, based on real issues I see every single year as a mobile RV tech and inspector in the Omaha area.
📅 When Should You De-Winterize in Nebraska?
Spring in Nebraska is tricky, especially for water systems.
✅ Safer De-Winterization Window (Typical Years)
For most RV owners around Omaha, a safe general window to de-winterize is:
Mid-March through Late April
But that’s only if:
Your RV is stored outdoors but temps stay above freezing most nights, or
You have a heated space, enclosed storage, or full-time heating system.
🚫 When Not to De-Winterize Yet
Hold off if:
Overnight temps still drop regularly below 25°F
Your RV is stored outside without skirting or heat
You do not have a heated water hose or heat tape and plan to hook to city water
You’re planning to travel into colder northern states or higher elevations in early spring
A single cold snap can cause:
burst PEX lines
cracked plastic fittings
split elbows
freeze-damaged water pumps
cracked city-water inlets
If days feel like spring but nights are still hard freezes?
👉 Wait. It’s cheaper to wait than to replace a bunch of fittings and pumps.
🧰 Full Step-By-Step RV De-Winterization (Omaha-Optimized)
This process applies to towable RVs, travel trailers, fifth wheels, and toy haulers. Motorhomes are similar but may have additional systems.
We’ll go in this order:
Flush antifreeze from lines
Return water heater to normal
Sanitize the fresh water system
Pressurize + inspect for leaks
Refill & test hot water
Test all plumbing fixtures
Check the fresh water pump
Inspect waste valves & tanks
Reinstall or replace water filters
1️⃣ Flush RV Antifreeze From the Lines
Most RV owners do this part too fast or only halfway.
If you used non-toxic RV antifreeze for winterization (the pink stuff), it needs to be flushed from:
hot & cold lines
sinks
showers
toilets
sprayers
Steps:
Make sure all winter bypasses and open drains are reset/closed where needed.
Fill your fresh tank with clean water, OR connect to a city water source (better with a pressure regulator).
Start with the cold side of the faucet closest to your pump.
Run water until it turns from pink to clear.
Repeat on the hot side.
Move through the RV:
kitchen sink (hot & cold)
bathroom sink (hot & cold)
shower (hot & cold)
outside shower (if equipped)
toilet and any sprayer
💡 Why this matters: RV antifreeze is safe, but it can leave:
residue
a sweet smell
a slight taste
You want all of that out before sanitizing and drinking from your system.
2️⃣ Return the Water Heater to Normal Operation
This is the step most new owners forget — and it’s the #1 cause of springtime water heater damage.
During winterization, your water heater was:
bypassed
drained
often left open at the drain/anode plug
Before using it again, you need to:
✅ Water Heater De-Winterization Checklist
✔ Remove the bypass so water can flow back into the heater
✔ Reinstall the anode rod (Suburban heaters) or drain plug (Atwood/Dometic)
✔ Inspect the anode rod for corrosion — replace if it’s over 75% eaten away
✔ Flush the tank with a wand to remove sediment if needed
✔ Inspect the exterior door, burner area, and fittings for cracks or damage
✔ Turn on a hot water faucet and verify the heater tank fills completely
⛔ NEVER turn on the water heater (electric or gas) until it is full of water.
You can burn out an electric element in under 10 seconds if it’s dry. Replacing that element can cost more than the entire de-winterization service would have.
3️⃣ Sanitize the Fresh Water System
De-winterization is the perfect time to sanitize.
Winter storage can lead to:
bacteria
biofilm
algae growth (if stored with water)
stale odors
slimy faucet aerators
🧴 How to Sanitize Your RV Fresh Water System
Mix ¼ cup of plain household bleach per 15 gallons of fresh tank capacity.
Example: 60-gallon tank → 1 cup bleach.
Add this solution to your fresh tank (through the gravity fill or designated port).
Fill the rest of the tank with clean water.
Turn on the pump and run each faucet (hot and cold) until you smell bleach.
Don’t forget:
shower
outside shower
bathroom sink
toilet
low-point drains (closed again after flow)
Let the system sit 6–12 hours (many owners do this overnight).
Drain the fresh tank and open low-point drains.
Refill the fresh tank with clean water and flush faucets again until bleach smell fades.
Repeat a second flush if needed.
4️⃣ Pressurize the System and Inspect for Leaks
This step is where pros catch the problems before you do.
You can pressurize with:
your water pump, or
city water (with a regulator — I recommend 40–50 PSI for older rigs)
Check:
under all sinks
around the toilet base + back connection
behind shower access panels
around the water pump
at low-point drains
around the water heater connections
any place with previous work or fittings
Nebraska cold snaps can cause:
hairline cracks in plastic fittings
split PEX
brittle elbows
Leaks might be slow — but if you catch them now, you prevent:
swollen floors
damaged cabinets
mold in unseen spaces
5️⃣ Refill the Water Heater Completely & Test Hot Water
Once you’ve:
removed the bypass
installed the plug/anode
filled the fresh tank or connected to water
…turn on a hot faucet and let it run.
You want:
consistent flow
no sputtering
no air spurts after the first moments
Now you can:
turn on the electric water heater switch (if equipped), and/or
test it on propane
If it doesn’t ignite or heat:
confirm you have propane
check the reset buttons on the outside panel
check any error lights or codes
listen for the igniter clicking
If the burner never starts, or if it starts and shuts off, this is the time to diagnose — not on your first weekend at Mahoney.
6️⃣ Test All Plumbing Fixtures
Go room by room:
🧼 Kitchen sink — hot & cold
🧼 Bathroom sink — hot & cold
🚿 Shower/tub — hot & cold
🚽 Toilet — fill valve + flush + bowl seal
🚿 Outside shower — often forgotten
Watch for:
reduced flow (possible clogs, kinks, partial freeze damage)
sputtering air (can be normal at first)
dripping around connections
slow drains
odd noises in the pump
If your shower or faucet sputters consistently, you may have:
an air pocket
partially clogged aerator
faucet cartridge debris
Good time to clean aerators and screens.
7️⃣ Check the Fresh Water Pump
Pumps can:
seize
crack
lose prime
loosen at fittings
After winter, the pump should:
run smoothly
build pressure quickly
shut off once the system is pressurized
kick back on briefly when you open a faucet
If it:
runs continuously
pulses with no water flow
leaks around fittings
…something’s wrong. Catch it now while you’re in the driveway, not at Lake Cunningham at 9pm.
8️⃣ Inspect Waste Valves and Tanks
Nebraska winters are rough on:
gate valves
seals
low-point drain caps
exposed fittings
Check:
black tank valve – opens and closes smoothly?
gray tank valve(s) – same test
any signs of leaks or seepage around the valve body
Stiff handles or partial movement can mean:
internal ice damage
dried seals
early failure
Also inspect:
sewer hose connection
tank flush (if equipped) for cracks/leaks
cap threads
9️⃣ Reinstall or Replace Your Water Filter
If you removed your filter for winterization (you should!), now is the time to:
install a new canister filter, or
replace your under-sink water filter, or
install a whole-rig sediment + carbon setup
Do not reuse old filters that sat all winter — they’re often moldy, clogged, or biofilm-loaded.
Fresh filter = better taste and safer water.
🚫 What Not to Do During De-Winterization
Let’s hit the big “please don’ts”:
❌ Don’t turn on the water heater without water
Fastest way to burn out the electric element.
❌ Don’t skip sanitizing the fresh tank
Winter storage water is not “fresh.”Bacteria and biofilm grow in stagnant water.
❌ Don’t assume small leaks are “normal after storage”
They don’t fix themselves. They spread.
❌ Don’t leave a garden hose hooked up in freezing nights
Unheated hoses freeze → cracked city inlet fittings.
❌ Don’t leave your sewer hose hooked up full-time in spring cold
Standing liquid in hoses or traps can freeze and crack.
🧊 What Commonly Fails After Winter Storage (Real Omaha-Area Examples)
Every March–April, I see the same pattern:
🔧 Cracked plastic fittings
Cold shrinks plastic → stress fractures → leaks when pressurized.
🔧 Water heater failures
Causes:
element turned on dry
cracked tank
loose wire at the board
was left bypassed and never filled
🔧 Split PEX lines
Especially near:
exterior walls
underbelly runs
poorly insulated areas
🔧 Toilet leaks and bad seals
Cold and dry storage can shrink rubber seals, causing:
constant running
water around the base
a bowl that won’t hold water
🔧 Pump issues
After winter, pumps might:
lose prime
crack inside the housing
suck air through loosened fittings
🔧 Cracked city-water inlets
Very common if still hooked to a hose during a freeze.
🔧 Low-point drain failures
The caps and threads crack easily in the cold.
🚨 First-Time Owner Mistakes (And How to Avoid Them)
❌ Mistake #1: De-winterizing too early
March teases you. April tests you.If in doubt, wait another week.
❌ Mistake #2: Forgetting the water heater bypass
Result: element burnout and no hot water.
❌ Mistake #3: Not sanitizing the fresh water system
Musty, swampy-smelling water is a sign your system needs a proper bleach flush.
❌ Mistake #4: Hooking up a regular hose in freezing temps
Unheated hoses freeze solid and can back-freeze fittings.
❌ Mistake #5: Not looking behind panels
Some of the worst leaks hide behind removable access panels.
❌ Mistake #6: Never testing appliances until the first trip
You don’t want to discover:
a dead fridge
a failing furnace
a non-igniting water heater
…when you’ve just driven 3 hours from Omaha with excited kids in the back.
💰 Why Hiring a Mobile RV Tech for De-Winterization Saves Money
Can you do de-winterization yourself? Yes.
Should every new RV owner have at least one spring done by a tech? I’d strongly recommend it.
A professional de-winterization service:
✔ Prevents expensive hidden water damage
✔ Protects your water heater from dry-fire
✔ Finds freeze damage early
✔ Tests your pump, valves, and appliances under pressure
✔ Verifies electrical and propane safety
✔ Gives you a spring “baseline” for future comparisons
✔ Saves you the hassle of crawling, climbing, guessing, and hoping
Plus, with mobile service, your RV doesn’t have to go anywhere — I come to:
your driveway
your storage lot
your farm property
your seasonal site (if accessible)
🌷 Nebraska-Specific Spring Prep Tips
A few extra notes for RV owners around Omaha and the Midwest:
Avoid hooking to outdoor non-frost-free faucets too early
Spring thunderstorms = perfect time to inspect your roof, vents, and skylights for leaks
RVs stored on gravel or dirt lots all winter are more prone to undercarriage rust and moisture
If you’re living in your RV full-time through winter/spring:
check heat tape
check skirting
inspect your heated hose
verify belly insulation for sagging or water
📞 Ready for Spring? Pre-Book Your Omaha RV De-Winterization
If you’re in the Omaha metro and want your RV de-winterized the right way — with leak checks, safety checks, and system testing — I offer full mobile de-winterization service for towable RVs:
RV De-Winterization Service Includes:
✅ Full system flush
✅ Fresh water system sanitization
✅ Leak inspection at key fittings
✅ Water heater setup & testing
✅ Pump testing and performance check
✅ Valve and low-point drain checks
✅ Basic appliance startup (water heater, pump, etc.)
✅ Quick roof & slide seal visual inspection
✅ Q&A time for you as the owner
Serving:
Omaha
Papillion
Bellevue
Gretna
La Vista
Elkhorn
Council Bluffs
Surrounding Nebraska/Iowa areas
Spring spots fill quickly every year.
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